Door locks and latches here cover mechanical and traditional hardware, distinct from the electric maglocks and strikes used in networked access control systems. Choosing correctly depends on the door type and the level of protection required.

What to check before ordering

• Euro cylinder anti-snap rating. Standard euro cylinders can be snapped in seconds with basic tools, a well-known weak point on uPVC and composite doors. Anti-snap cylinders are built with a sacrificial section that breaks away without exposing the mechanism, and are the single most cost-effective security upgrade available for most front doors.
• Cylinder length. Measure from the centre of the fixing screw to each end of the door thickness — an incorrectly sized cylinder either protrudes (giving attackers something to grip) or fails to engage the mechanism properly.
• British Standard kitemark. BS3621 (and the higher BS8621/BS10621 variants) are frequently required by insurers for final exit doors — check your policy before assuming any lock will satisfy a claim.

Locks vs latches

A lock deadlocks with a key from both sides; a latch closes automatically and can usually be opened from inside without a key, which matters for fire escape routes. Front doors typically need a deadlocking mechanism; internal fire doors often need a latch that will not trap someone inside.

For electrically operated doors on a networked system, see access control door locks instead.